At 2 p.m. on Sunday we arrive, each carrying a bowl or platter. We gather around the table, excited to see Ann’s roasted chanterelles set alongside Rachel’s sweet potatoes with lime and cojita, Laura’s braised pork next to Lillian’s smoky eggplant pureé. Nazila stashes two fruit cobblers in the kitchen; they join Kairu’s chocolate cake…

[Photographs: Vicky Wasik] I love soft and fluffy Parker House rolls as much as anyone, but when faced with the creamy casseroles, buttery mashed potatoes, sausage stuffing, pan-drippings-turned-gravy, and all those other uber-rich classics, what I crave is something lean and crusty. And there’s nothing wrong with classic hard rolls, but without a steam-injected oven,…